Plumes of blue-gray smoke signal lunchtime at this corner in Little Haiti.
A police officer in an unmarked black Impala slinks next to the billowing black smoker outside the new Bon Gout Haitian barbecue restaurant and lowers her window.
“Y’all got food ready yet, in there?” the officer asks.
Pierry “Wiwi” Saintjoy shuts the lid on the oaky clouds scenting racks of spare ribs and smoke-ringed brisket that have been cooking since 5 a.m. “Yes, Miss B! C’mon in.”
Scooters zip in and out of the restaurant like Miami-to-D.C. shuttles, picking up delivery orders. Inside, it’s 15 minutes after a Friday noon opening, but already the line is a dozen people deep at this six-month old neighborhood spot.
The smoke is Bon Gout’s beacon. And finally, neighbors know where to find them.